A Muslim enclave in the heart of Christian Ethiopia, an important commercial hub between Addis Ababa and Djibouti and the epicentre of the qat trade, Harar is certainly one of the most seductive cities in the Horn of Africa. A brief extension of the classic itineraries, but well worth the trip for the magical atmosphere within its walls.

A holy city of Islam perched on the plateau at an altitude of 1885 metres and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Harar fascinates visitors as they wander through its winding alleyways with their multicoloured walls and visit its picturesque markets for spices and qat, the powerful natural amphetamine that is widespread in the region. A spectacle of sounds, colours, pungent smells and bewitching scents reaches its climax when the “hyena men” enter the scene. They are the guardians of the city who, in keeping with an ancient tradition, every evening call in hyenas from the surrounding hills and feed them morsels of meat as if they were harmless domestic animals.