© I. Fornasiero
The western coast of Côte d’Ivoire is a pleasant play of contrasts: a concentration of fervent activity in the streets of the tourist ports and markets that enliven the coastal resorts of Sassandra, San Pedro and Gran-Bereby and, at the same time, an invigorating experience of seaside relaxation in an unparalleled natural setting.
Sassandra, certainly the liveliest of the three coastal towns, is a picturesque fishing town on the scenic estuary of the river from which it takes its name. Founded by the Portuguese in 1472 and later colonised by the English and French, its shady streets of beaten earth preserve memories of the three dominations. Among the simple dwellings of the Fanti fishermen, who arrived from Ghana at the beginning of the 20th century and soon became the majority ethnic group in these coastal areas, are colonial buildings of decadent elegance. The Ancienne maison du Governeur de Bas-Sassandra, built at the end of the 19th century on top of the promontory that acts as a natural barrier between the calm flow of the river and the undertow of the Atlantic Ocean, which rushes into the Gulf of Guinea, stands out above all others.
The view from the headland is worth a visit to the Governor’s House, of which only the outer structure remains. From the top, in fact, it is possible to observe the bustle of the small port, with the fishermen returning in their multicoloured boats and handing over their cargo to the women, who have the task of sorting the catch, some of which is destined for the Abidjan market and some of which is smoked on the spot for longer conservation.
Smoking fish is the main activity of the local women, who organise themselves into work groups structured according to age and ethnicity. Ghanaians, Liberians, Burkinabes and Ivorians vie for space in the market, and in the evening entire neighbourhoods are filled with the dense, acrid fumes of their traditional smokehouses.
This cosy town, which can be visited on foot in half a day, is also a strategic base for unforgettable excursions. Just a few kilometres from Sassandra are beautiful beaches of fine sand, bordered by rainforest. Heavenly places such as Niega, which has become a popular surfing spot, or the bay of Vodiego-Grand Drewin, where vestiges of colonial times are preserved in the shade of coconut palms.
Finally, on the coastal road to Abidjan, it is worth stopping at the edge of the Ebriè Lagoon, from where you can take a pirogue to the charming village on stilts of Tiagba.
