© A. Pappone
The Eastern Region of Ethiopia, which extends to the Somali border, is one of the most interesting and varied in the country.
Here, the morphology and landscape range from the barren, hot plains, historically the land of the Oromo people, to the volcanic lakes of Debre Zeyit, from the qat plantations in which the area is rich to the savannahs of the Awash National Park, from the volcanic mountains and karst to the plateaus, where the orderly city of Dire Dawa and the much older city of Harar stand.
The city of Dire Dawa, was founded in the early 1900s, following the construction of the railway line linking Addis Ababa to the port of Djibouti. While the city is therefore of modern conception, becoming among other things the second most populated city in Ethiopia, its surroundings conceal prehistoric fossil and lithic remains that make it one of the most ancient lands of humanity. Let us not forget that it was in this region that the remains of the hominid Lucy were found.
Not far from Dire Dawa is the ancient city of Harar, a stronghold of Islamic penetration on Ethiopian soil. With its innumerable alleyways, it stands out from other Ethiopian towns, looking more like a Middle Eastern souk.
One of the curiosities of Harar is a ritual, as old as the city itself, which has been going on every night for centuries, during which men feed morsels of meat to hyenas.
Historically, it was an important crossroads, a commercial centre attracting people even from India, and home to the most important and richest market in the Horn of Africa. It reached its zenith under Arab control in the 17th and 18th centuries. It was only in 1854 that a non-Muslim first set foot in Harar, the British explorer Richard Burton. In 1887, the city surrendered to Emperor Menelik and opened up to outside influences, while still maintaining its own strong identity. Remember that Arthur Rimbaud spent the last years of his life in Harar.
The city was fortified in the 16th century by an Arab emir, to curb the Oromo threats, and there are six gates to the centre, four of which are original. In the maze of narrow streets and alleyways, you will find picturesque views, characterised by historical buildings, numerous ancient mosques (3 of which date back to the 10th century), sanctuaries, tombs, craft shops and the typical harari houses. The houses are generally two-storey with a flat roof, built of clay and wooden beams and painted with lime. The façade is often decorated with green or blue paint, while the interior walls are adorned with tapestries and niches. It is the most striking example of Ethiopian Muslim architecture, a unique blend of Middle Eastern and African influences, embellished with decorative elements of Indian origin, such as the characteristic veranda balconies.
