Talking about Algerian handicrafts, the first image that comes to mind is the colourful Ghardaia market.
This ancient Mozabite city boasts a renowned tradition of geometric and stylised carpets and textiles, some of the finest and most colourful in the Maghreb, and Berber savoir faire. The bustling markets of the Pentapolis, in the M’zab Valley, offer one of the widest choices for souvenir shopping in Algeria. The smells of the stalls and boutiques in the souks take us back to ancient and exotic atmospheres. In fact, among the multitude of ceramic and earthenware utensils, blown glass, copper trays, wicker baskets and leather decorations, carpets and characteristic fabrics of cotton or wool, spices are certainly among the undisputed protagonists. If you want to take a bit of Algeria home with you, let these smells and colours find a little corner in your luggage!
Kabylia deserves a special mention in the panorama of Algerian souvenirs. Kabyle jewellery, together with that of the Touareg tradition of the south, is perhaps the most characteristic and elaborate of the entire Berber culture. Kabyle jewellery is unmistakable. A riot of decorations, colours and elaborate shapes, also applied to wooden objects or everyday utensils, which are then ennobled and elevated to the status of precious jewellery. Typical are the highly refined silver jewels that accompany the bride’s dowry and wedding trousseau, set with inserts of Mediterranean coral, gems and enamels in symbolic colours: the green of nature, the yellow of the sun, the blue of the sky. Decorative headwear, fringes and buckles, belts and necklaces, bracelets and rings, earrings and brooches, all finely decorated and embellished. This is a centuries-old art in Kabylia, handed down from generation to generation within the Beni Yenni tribe, but for the last fifty years or so it has also been passed on to other craftsmen in the region, in order to preserve and perpetuate its secrets.
While the capital city of Algiers certainly offers good addresses for contemporary art enthusiasts, the same cannot be said for handmade souvenirs. It is possible to find a few boutiques and antique shops (especially for goldsmiths and jewellers in general) selling artefacts from all the Algerian regions, but the best bargains are to be found in the southern markets.
In Tamanrasset, the central market is worth a visit, not so much to buy souvenirs (more like insignificant objects and various chinoiserie) as to breathe in the atmosphere.
While in the city centre boutiques the choice is decidedly more upmarket, with a wide range of interesting artefacts from the Touareg culture and also from sub-Saharan Africa. Among the chests and trunks finely lined with hand-crafted leather and decorated with metal inserts, among the silver filigree jewellery typical of the Touareg (necklaces, bracelets, rings, pendants, etc.), or among the traditional nomadic vestments with which the dromedaries were adorned during the caravan crossings (saddles, bridles, leather pendants, good luck charms, etc.), one object takes pride of place. It is the symbol par excellence of this ancient culture, the cross of the Kel Ahaggar (inhabitants of the Hoggar mountains). It is a very fine metal pendant (silver, copper or bronze), finely embossed, which is a stylised representation of the key of the region’s ancient locks. Definitely a characteristic souvenir not to be missed!
For “solidarity” purchases, there is a small shop run by the missionary sisters of the Little Brothers of Jesus, who manage the old house and chapel where Father Foucauld lived when he arrived in Tamanrasset. Small objects are handmade by the neediest local women, who can thus receive a small financial contribution from the sale of their handiwork. Delightful rag dolls for men and women, dressed in traditional Touareg clothing, or small cribs designed as a typical nomadic family with a tent and dromedaries.
In Djanet an entire section of the central market is reserved for souvenir shops and is well worth a visit. Here, too, you’re spoilt for choice. From large waxed cotton capes and indigo turbans, typical of Touareg “fashion” and from which they derive their nickname of “blue men“, to jewellery, leatherwork and wickerwork, there is something for all tastes and pockets, especially if you are familiar with the art of bargaining.
If you want to buy “fair trade”, it’s easy to meet nomadic families camping in the Teneré desert, on their way back from Tadrart Rouge towards Djanet. The women make small souvenirs with their own hands out of coloured woollen fabrics, leather belts and key rings or lucky charms (grisgris).
And don‘t forget to pack at least one bag of dates.